Causal agent
I. Title: Brown rot decay of cedar wood on exterior decking
II. Deterioration Agent: A brown rot fungi
III. Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA
IV. Description of Problem: Brown Rot
This house was constructed in 1856 and resides near the University of Minnesota. It served as the home for the University of Minnesota’s first president and is one of the oldest homes in Minneapolis. It is now home to the Minnesota Alpha chapter of Sigma Phi Epsilon Fraternity. The house joined the Minneapolis Heritage Preservation Commission in 1976. It suffered a devastating fire in 1992 and portions of the house were rebuilt shortly after. There are multiple areas around the exterior (mainly the front and back porch) that suffer from brown rot decay. The re-construction of the front and back porch could have led to and or aided in the problems described below. The carpenters may have not used properly treated wood, they may have not dip-treated the ends of the boards if they had been cut to size, they used iron nails which could have been a point of entry for the fungus, and may have not taken ground moisture or rain drainage into consideration. The main area of rot occurs at the junction between the porch and a custom made pillar. Due to the custom woodwork, it is possible that the carpenters did not properly treat/close all seams and edges. There are no sporophores present but the brown rot can be identified by the presence of cubical checking, the deep brown color from the remaining lignin, and the ability to crush the wood in between fingers which forms a powder. There is also galvanic corrosion present on all of the nails. The Fenton reaction between the fungi and wood causes an early and rapid strength loss by hydrolyzing cellulose and hemicelluloses. The rapid strength loss of the porch proves to be dangerous for anyone walking on its surface. Due to this fact, the structural boards, the decking boards, and the custom pillar need to be replaced. The Heritage Preservation Commission requires that the façade stay identical to the original design. This makes replacing these exterior structures more difficult due to the cost and expertise required to meet the Commission’s standards.
Make sure wood is re painted as necessary and completely applied to all wood surfaced. Ensure all debris is cleared from underneath porch. Make sure snow and ice are removed from the porch before the spring melt. Check wood pieces that have ground contact to see if it is vectoring the fungi. If yes, replace those boards and if not, ensure the ends are properly treated. Inspect annually to ensure the prevention of future degradation.
The structural boards and the deck boards need to be replaced. Naturally durable and decay resistant lumber is an option although it is believed that the current wood is cedar and has decay. The structural lumber should be a minimum of .40pcf and the deck boards should be .25pcf, fully painted, or stained. If the boards need to be cut to size, the ends need to be painted, stained, or treated with a copper based preservative such as copper napthenate, copper azola, or ammoniacal copper quat. This will help fight against decay but may discolor the wood or have an unpleasant smell, such as diesel. If the Minnesota Historical Society had more relaxed regulations, wood-plastic composite decking could be used. Other strategies include using stainless steel or galvanized nails and limiting moisture. Moisture can travel from the ground, up through the wood, and to the top of the deck structure so make sure grass and leaf debris is not present. Also, make sure all gutters are working properly to avoid rain or snow melt coming into contact with the structure.
Addition completed in 2000, photo taken in 2009. Fungal decay (organism not id'ed) is extensive.
It appears from the photo that untreated wood is in contact with soil, which is very poor practice. If not in direct contact, foundation was not high enough and/or drained and vented enough. Eaves were insufficent (2-storey structure) to prevent continued wetting of base of wall.
R&R are required. It will be a big job. Using treated wood is advisable but won't solve wetting issues which will lead to other problems.
Untreated wood, most likely southern yellow pine, was used for steps leading up to the deck shown in the attached images. The steps were built in 1999 along with the house, and the decay problem was very advanced by 2004. The steps look like they were painted gray, but the paint has chipped and worn, exposing untreated wood. The deck itself was 0.25 pcf treated wood and, at the time of these photos, did not show signs of the fungus (sporophores, cubical checking, etc.). Clearly, the agent of decay is a fungus. The sporophore belongs to Gloeophyllum sepiarium, also known as the 'mazegill' fungus. You can see its sporophore as a rust-colored protrusion (a small shelf fungus) at the front end of the step. It is a brown rot, so the problem the landlord faces here is three-fold: 1) the steps need replacing, immediately, 2) the renters are at risk for falling through the deck because brown rot fungi reduce strength in wood quickly and 3) the mycelial mass of the fungus in this wood can act as a source for problems elsewhere, including the deck. Assuming CCA was the treatment for the deck boards (pre-2004), there should have been little leaching since being built and there is lower potential, but at 0.25 pcf, you could still have decay. Some brown rot fungi are more tolerant/resistant of heavy metals. Also, one of the images shows that the nail fasteners have failed, and they do not look galvanized, etc. There was likely galvanic corrosion and possibly iron leaching into the wood which, for iron-dependent brown rot fungi, may be a problem.
In regards to avoidance, other than using treated wood or applying an effective layer of paint (perhaps with some treads to avoid wear) I would try to keep the grass mowed next to the steps, and I would remove the debris, especially woody debris, from under the deck. This material is in ground contact in the dark and will vector new fungi into the structure. Also, annually inspect the rest of the building for brown rot.
The remediation strategy is as follows. These steps should be replaced, along with the stringers. Following a do-it-yourself approach is fine, but the wood needs to be treated. This is especially true of the stringers, and if you cut them, the exposed untreated wood should be painted or Cu-napthenate brushed on. If treated wood is used for steps, be sure if it is cut to brush a treatment on the newly exposed wood faces. If the owner wishes to repaint, the paint needs complete coverage and a yearly inspection. I would personally use treated wood, 0.60 pcf for the stringers if possible, and make sure they are resting on something other than soil.